How many quarts 300d

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Diesel Fitment Guarantee. Just fill it till it runs out the valve cover. I always use to dump in 8 qts when doing a oil change and filter. Then I discovered MB Shop. I read I was doing it all wrong. I did that once. Wife came out to talk to me while I was doing the change. Son in laws mom was coming down from Oregon to see the Monarch Butter flys here in Santa Cruz on their migration south for the winter. I usually buy oil in one gallon bottles, and it takes two for a change.

So getting side tracked, I dumped in 4 gallons. I notice the engine was acting strange and was smoking some, and not as peppy.

By the time we get to the park we are smoking real good. Park the car and off we go, I for got the camera so run back to the car, and there is a puddle of oil under the front end. OH crap, now I know I blew the engine.

We go for dinner and Iam stressing as to where Iam going to get the money for a new engine. Well in the middle of the night, something woke me up. I sit up straight up in bed and it hit me, OH crap! I put in twice the oil. So the next day I drain it and put back in the 8qts. So, follow orders here from the experts, and you should do well. Funny how that works. Its simple. Fill the engine with 7qts, run it, let it sit for 10 minutes and top it up. Originally Posted by charmalu. Cr from Texas.

When mine was new, it took 7. This will allow the oil to drain out of the engine faster. Be aware that once the bolt comes loose the oil will come out very quickly. Have a drain pan ready underneath the oil drain hole. Clean up your drain pan bolt. If you are unsure about how old the pan bolt is, it's best to replace it.

Consider replacing it every five or six oil changes. It's cheap insurance. Wearing gloves during an oil change is a very good idea. As mentioned before, it stains everything. As you can see, even after wiping up, these latex gloves are stained. Imagine what it would do to your skin. Next, loosen the two nuts that hold the lid on the oil filter housing.

They take a 13mm socket just like the drain plug. Once the nuts are loosened and removed, lift the cover up and out of the filter housing. Remove the filter as well. Be careful as you remove the cover. It can be easy to disconnect some of the vacuum lines that cross over and next to the oil filter housing. If this happens you may cause issues with the vacuum system such as the locks, the shut-off valve, or transmission. Note that when you remove the oil filter, the bit of oil left in the housing will then drain from the drain plug.

Make sure to leave the drain pan underneath until you re-install the drain plug towards the end of the guide. Make sure to keep the oil filter in a suitable container. It will slowly drip dirty oil.

The new oil filter kit should come with the filter itself, a choice of new crush washers for the drain plug bolt, and a new large o-ring gasket for the oil filter housing cover. It's generally recommended to use the copper crush washer. Copper is a soft metal that crushes well for a good seal. It is never a bad time to check parts before installing them. This oil filter was slightly crushed at the bottom during shipping.

Another one was used instead. Replace the rubber o-ring gasket around the lid of the oil filter housing cover. Never re-use the old one. Use a small needle nose plier or a small flat blade screwdriver to help remove the old gasket. Lightly coat the new gasket with some of the new motor oil to help it seal properly. Check the o-rings at the tip of the oil filter housing shaft.

There are two of them. If they are hardened, or no longer round, they should be replaced. Proper o-rings can be found in any metric o-ring set.